On Sunday Lake Erie was almost impossibly still, with some ice on the horizon. I had to keep checking the spot where the water shrugged against the beach to make sure the entire lake wasn’t frozen solid. We parked at a shoreside fish & chips shop in Lowbanks, closed for the season, and I made a note to return in the summer. Birds chattered above us and in the distance, and a greying dog named Trixie barked her hellos from the sand before bounding off. We heard her later being coaxed back into her car. (I know, girl, I know.) Even though we were only an hour from our home, the road trip mood was strong and so we stopped at the Tim Horton’s in Dunnville, the parking lot studded with motorcycles and people lounging about in t-shirts, their faces lifted to the sun.